A colourful town, beautiful beaches and hotels on the hillsides
Koh Phi Phi is one of the most special destinations in Thailand. On one hand, a small, crowded, colourful town full of life. On the other, beautiful beaches, romantic hotels on the hillsides and views that look as if they came straight off a postcard.
Full guideKoh Phi Phi is one of the most special destinations in Thailand. On one hand, a small, crowded, colourful town full of life. On the other, beautiful beaches, romantic hotels on the hillsides and views that look as if they came straight off a postcard. But there is one thing you need to understand before you book a hotel: the distance from the centre can completely change your holiday.
We learned this the hard way.
We stayed at a beautiful hotel in the Long Beach area, with one of the most impressive views we saw in Thailand, wooden bungalows and breakfast facing the sea. The price was excellent, the atmosphere was romantic and the beach was simply a dream.
So why would we never stay there again?
Because what we did not understand when we booked was that the way to the hotel involves a huge number of steps, that the distance from central Phi Phi is greater than it looks on the map, and that on a day when the sea is rough and the boats stop running, the way back can become a very hard experience.
And that is exactly what happened to us. Twice.
In this guide to Koh Phi Phi we explain the difference between the island's areas, where to stay depending on your holiday style, what to do on the island, where we had wonderful meals and what we would do differently.
We stayed here Phi Phi has hotels in very different locations, and each area offers a different experience.
When people say Koh Phi Phi, they usually mean the Phi Phi Islands group, which lies in the Andaman Sea between Phuket and Krabi.
The main island, where you will find the hotels, restaurants, shops and nightlife, is Koh Phi Phi Don. This is the island you stay on, and the one you head out from on trips in the area.
Another famous island is Koh Phi Phi Leh, home to Maya Bay, one of the most photographed places in Thailand. It is a destination for a boat trip, not the island with the hotels.
But the most important distinction for anyone planning a holiday is actually within Koh Phi Phi Don itself.
There is the central area, with the pier, the crowded streets, the restaurants and the nightlife; there are the beaches within walking distance or a short boat ride away; and there are more remote resorts, where the experience is mainly a quiet beach holiday.
On Phi Phi there is no regular road transport for tourists. There are no taxis to drive you between hotels. You get around mainly on foot or by longtail boat.
So, unlike other places in Thailand, it is not enough to check how many minutes the hotel is from the centre. You need to check exactly how you get there.
You arrive on Phi Phi at Tonsai Pier, the main pier where ferries and boats come in from Phuket, Krabi and other destinations.
When you step off the ferry, your first impression may come as a surprise.
If you are picturing a small, authentic fishing village, with white sand and clear water right outside the pier, you may be disappointed. The area near the pier is packed with businesses, restaurants, shops, travel agencies and international brands.
There are also familiar chains such as McDonald's, Western restaurants and lots of services for tourists.
To us, this part of Phi Phi feels very commercial, almost industrial. We did not feel the same authenticity there that we had looked for on other islands in Thailand.
But it is important to separate that feeling from the island as a whole. The pier area is a place for arriving, leaving and intense commercial activity. It does not represent all of Phi Phi's beaches.
Yes, significantly.
On 26 December 2004 the tsunami hit Phi Phi, and the waves swept across the low strip of land between Tonsai Bay and Loh Dalum Bay. Many of the buildings in the central area were destroyed, and in the years that followed the town was rebuilt.
To be precise, though: the fact that central Phi Phi has become commercial and crowded is not only the result of the rebuilding. The huge growth in tourism, construction and the spread of businesses have also shaped the character of the place.
Even today you can find stretches of beach in the central area, but around the pier itself there is a lot of boat traffic, so it is not where we would choose to enjoy a beautiful, quiet swimming beach.
Once you move a little away from the pier and into the inner streets, a completely different Phi Phi appears.
It is a real little town, with narrow alleys, clothes shops, stalls, restaurants of every kind, cafés, pubs, massage parlours, tour agencies and dive centres.
The streets are colourful, full of people, music and energy. There is a feeling that something is always happening.
We really loved wandering around there, popping into shops, looking at clothes, choosing where to eat and simply enjoying the atmosphere.
The centre is crowded and noisy, but there is also something happy and special about it. It is very different from islands like Koh Phangan or Koh Samui, where things are spread over much larger areas.
On Phi Phi everything is concentrated in a fairly small area, and you can walk between shops, restaurants and places to go out.
Among the streets of Tonsai Village there is also a local market with tropical fruit, vegetables, ready-made food and other produce.
We especially remember the huge choice of fresh, beautiful fruit. It was one of the places we most enjoyed discovering while wandering around the town.
The market is a chance to see a slightly more everyday side of Phi Phi, beyond the tourist restaurants and souvenir shops.
Go during the day, when the stalls are open, rather than leaving your visit for the night.
If you like going out in the evening, Phi Phi is a particularly interesting destination.
In the centre there are a few streets that look like an ordinary commercial area by day, and turn into a buzzing nightlife hub in the evening.
Pubs, music, live shows, karaoke, bars and parties - all within a short walk of each other.
One of the things that surprised us most was a bar with a boxing ring right inside it.
Reggae Bar is one of the best-known places to go out in central Phi Phi.
It has a Muay Thai ring, and the atmosphere is a mix of bar, music and boxing shows. On some evenings there are also fights with tourists taking part.
It is not a quiet place to sit with a glass of wine, but a loud, sociable night out.
The ring we saw while wandering around the centre was one of Phi Phi's surprises for us. We did not expect to find something like that in the middle of a small resort town.
On the other side of the centre, a short walk from the pier, is Loh Dalum Bay.
It is a completely different area from Long Beach.
By day you see a wide, beautiful bay surrounded by mountains, but in the evening part of the beach becomes a hub of bars, music, fire shows and parties.
If you are looking for intense nightlife, you can really enjoy this area.
If you are looking for quiet, on the other hand, be careful about booking a room too close to the bars. Even a hotel that looks calm in the photos can be affected by the music at night.
Another important detail: Loh Dalum is a fairly shallow bay, and the beach changes a lot with the tides. At low tide the water can retreat a long way from the shoreline.
In our view this is the most important decision when planning your holiday. Phi Phi has hotels in very different locations, and each area offers a different experience:
The full comparison of the areas, the distances from the pier, the boats and the tides is in our where-to-stay guide.
The full guide: where to stay on Koh Phi Phi →
✓ We stayed here | 27 January - 1 February 2025
We stayed at HIP Seaview Resort, on the hillside above Long Beach. Wooden bungalows, paths through the greenery, a vast sea view and a fresh breakfast facing the view - one of the most beautiful hotels we saw in Thailand.
But to get there from the beach you have to climb a very large number of steps, and when the boats were not running we walked back from the centre along the beaches and over the rocks. That is why we would not go back.
One of the things that pleasantly surprised us in the Long Beach area was the choice of restaurants.
Despite the distance from the centre, we found some very beautiful places along the beach, with wonderful food and a romantic atmosphere.
Some of the restaurants belong to hotels, but you can usually eat there without staying, depending on their policy and availability.
✓ We ate here | January 2025
If there is one restaurant we especially remember from Phi Phi, it is Sawasdee Restaurant, in the grounds of Phi Phi Long Beach Resort & Villa.
The restaurant sits a little above the beach, on a built terrace looking straight out to sea.
You are not sitting right on the sand, but you are close enough to the water to enjoy the view and the beach atmosphere.
Next to the restaurant there is also a massage area, which adds to the feeling of a tropical resort.
We simply loved everything there.
The atmosphere was wonderful, the service was outstanding and the food was amazing.
It was not just a good meal, but an evening we remember for the whole experience.
One of the dishes we had was a Thai dish served inside a hollowed-out pineapple.
It was most likely Khao Pad Sapparot, Thai fried rice with pineapple, which is sometimes served in half a pineapple.
It is a dish that combines sweet and savoury flavours, and sometimes includes vegetables, cashews, egg, chicken or seafood.
The presentation itself is very pretty, and we remember being especially taken with the dish.
We warmly recommend Sawasdee if you are staying in the Long Beach area, and also if you come to the beach on a day trip and want to add a good meal by the sea.
It is one of the restaurants we would be happy to go back to.
On another evening we ate at the restaurant of Paradise Resort Phi Phi, which is also in the Long Beach area.
We really enjoyed it here too.
The food was excellent, the atmosphere pleasant and the beachfront location adds a lot to the experience.
If you are looking for a calmer, more romantic evening than a night out in Phi Phi's busy centre, this is exactly the kind of place worth knowing.
Sawasdee was our particular favourite, but Paradise was also a very good choice.
Right below the hotel we stayed at there was also a simpler local restaurant, with tasty Thai food and reasonable prices.
We loved being able to sit facing the sea and eat a good meal without paying luxury resort restaurant prices.
The place felt authentic and pleasant, and was a great option for a meal close to the hotel.
We cannot identify the restaurant's exact name for certain, so we prefer not to give it a name that might be wrong.
Another place we loved in the area was Let's Sea Bar, the beach bar of Phi Phi The Beach Resort.
Unlike the quieter, more romantic restaurants in the area, the atmosphere here was sociable and lively.
There was seating right on the sand, tables in a built area, direct access to the beach, music and a fire show.
It felt a bit like a beach club, but in beautiful surroundings of sea and mountains.
We arrived fairly late and could no longer order food. We remember that at around ten at night the kitchen had stopped serving, at least on that evening.
So we settled for drinks and enjoyed the atmosphere and the show.
It is a place we would especially recommend if you are staying on Long Beach and want to go out in the evening without taking a boat all the way to central Phi Phi.
Just check the kitchen hours in advance, as the bar and restaurant hours are not necessarily the same.
Beyond the lively centre and the hotels, Phi Phi offers beautiful beaches, viewpoints, snorkelling, diving and boat trips.
Some of the places below are on Koh Phi Phi Don, and others are on nearby islands and need a boat trip.
This is one of the viewpoints most closely associated with Phi Phi.
From up high you can see the island's distinctive shape, with its two bays - Tonsai and Loh Dalum - on either side of the narrow strip of land.
This is the view that appears in many of the famous photos of Phi Phi.
The way up to the viewpoint involves steps and a climb, so wear comfortable shoes, bring water and avoid the hottest hours as far as possible.
There are several viewpoints along the route, and you do not have to reach all of them.
Even if you choose to stay in central Phi Phi, we recommend spending some time on Long Beach.
It is a much more beautiful beach than the pier area, with pale sand, clear water and views of the islands opposite.
You can get there by longtail boat and spend a few hours on the beach, swim, eat at one of the restaurants and go back to the centre.
This can be a great way to enjoy the beauty of Long Beach without dealing with the drawbacks of staying somewhere remote.
Off the end of Long Beach is a well-known snorkelling area called Shark Point.
You can see fish, reefs and sometimes blacktip reef sharks, which are usually shy and are not considered aggressive towards people.
Be aware that this is open sea, with rocks, currents and boat traffic.
Do not swim out there alone unless you are an experienced swimmer; check the sea conditions and consider going with a guide.
Maya Bay is on Koh Phi Phi Leh, a separate island from Koh Phi Phi Don.
It became especially famous thanks to the film The Beach, and turned into one of the most sought-after places in Thailand.
The bay is surrounded by tall limestone cliffs, with pale sand and turquoise water.
But it is important to know that a visit today is different from the experience shown in the film and in old photos.
After years of heavy tourism and damage to the ecosystem, the bay was closed for a recovery period and reopened with restrictions.
As of October 2026, there is no free swimming in the bay, boats do not drop passengers directly on the beach, and visits go through a regulated entry area. There are also seasonal closures.
We want to stress: we did not visit Maya Bay ourselves, so the recommendations here are based on checked information rather than personal experience.
Before booking a trip, check whether the bay is open, exactly what the route includes and what restrictions apply at that time.
Pileh Lagoon is a spectacular lagoon on Koh Phi Phi Leh, with green-turquoise water and tall limestone cliffs all around it.
It is one of the most popular stops on boat trips in the area.
Swimming and boating conditions vary with the weather, the tides and how many boats are there.
Monkey Beach is one of the places visited on snorkelling and boat trips.
We visited the area on an earlier trip to Phi Phi, but the water was not especially clear on that visit.
It is an important reminder that even in places famous for clear water, the actual experience depends on the weather and sea conditions.
The beach is also known for the monkeys that live in the area. Do not feed them, do not try to touch them and do not get close to them for a photo.
Bamboo Island, or Koh Mai Phai, is a small island north of Koh Phi Phi Don.
It is known for its pale beaches and clear water, and it appears on boat and snorkelling trip routes.
Check how much time the trip really gives the island. Sometimes a route includes lots of stops, but leaves very little time at each one to enjoy the beach.
Phi Phi is a well-known diving destination, with many dive centres in the Tonsai area and at some of the beach hotels.
You can find guided dives for certified divers, courses, and sometimes try dives for beginners.
The dive sites in the area include reefs, rock walls and varied marine life.
If you are planning to dive, check the certification level required, the sea conditions, your insurance and how long you need to wait before flying.
You reach Phi Phi by sea, on ferries and speedboats.
Common departure points include Phuket and Krabi, and there are also connections from other destinations depending on the season and the operator.
Most visitors arriving on Koh Phi Phi Don get off at Tonsai Pier.
But if you have booked a hotel on a remote beach, reaching the pier is not necessarily the end of the journey.
You may need to continue by longtail boat or use a transfer arranged by the hotel.
Arrange this in advance, especially if you are arriving late or with large suitcases.
The period between November and April is generally considered better for trips and boat travel in the Andaman Sea, with a higher chance of a calm sea.
In the wetter months, mainly during the south-west monsoon, there can be waves, wind and days when some trips or boat transfers are cancelled.
But even in the good season there is no guarantee of a calm sea every evening.
Our experience with the boats that were not running is exactly why we would not rely on sea transport as if it were a taxi that runs in all conditions.
If you want to combine the centre, beautiful beaches and a boat trip, we would recommend at least two or three nights.
If you are planning to dive, love nightlife or also want some quiet days on the beach, you can stay longer.
A day trip from Krabi or Phuket lets you see some of the famous scenery, but it does not let you really experience the special atmosphere of central Phi Phi in the evening.
Arrive at the pier, settle into your hotel and head out to wander the streets of Tonsai.
Spend some time in the shops, the fruit market and the restaurants. In the evening you can stroll around the nightlife area, see Reggae Bar or head to Loh Dalum.
Spend the day on a trip around Koh Phi Phi Leh, with possible stops at Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and other snorkelling spots.
Choose a route by the time it gives each stop, not just by the number of places listed in the advert.
Take a longtail boat to Long Beach, spend time on the beach and enjoy the water and the view.
You can eat at Sawasdee Restaurant or Paradise Resort, and then sit at Let's Sea Bar if it is open that evening.
If you are staying in the centre, arrange your boat back in advance and do not assume there will always be a way to sail late at night.
Phi Phi is an island with an exceptional character.
Its centre is not necessarily beautiful or authentic in the classic sense, and it can be very commercial, crowded and noisy. But when you go into the inner streets, you discover a colourful, happy place full of life, with plenty of food, shops and nightlife.
And when you move away from the centre, you discover a completely different side: beautiful beaches, clear water, romantic restaurants and hotels with breathtaking views.
We loved both of these sides.
But we learned that on Phi Phi you need to choose between them consciously.
The most beautiful hotel is not necessarily the one you should book.
Sometimes the stunning view comes with a hundred or more steps, sometimes the romantic beach requires a boat ride to get to dinner, and sometimes a half-hour walk that looks simple on the map turns into a dark route over rocks.
If there is one thing we would like you to take from this guide, it is to check not only what the hotel looks like, but how you will actually get around from it.
Because on Phi Phi, location is an inseparable part of the experience.
Our personal experiences are based on our stay on Phi Phi in January-February 2025. The information on Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, Bamboo Island, diving and the hotels we did not stay at is based on outside sources. Sea conditions, opening hours and restrictions change - we recommend checking before you go.
