Chiang Mai

01How Chiang Mai is laid out - in brief

Before you book a hotel: in Chiang Mai it is not enough to check that the hotel is "in the centre". The Old City, the night market area, the Chang Khlan area and Nimman are different places, and even if the distances look short on the map, the experience of staying there can be very different.

• The Old City - for anyone who likes to head out and wander between temples and lanes
• Night Bazaar and Chang Khlan - convenient if you want lively evenings. We stayed here
• Nimman - a modern urban setting

We stayed at Astra Sky River Chiang Mai, in the Chang Khlan area. For us it was a good choice: the place was beautiful and indulgent, and the area suited us, partly because it was close to shopping centres.

The full guide: where to stay in Chiang Mai ›

02Chiang Mai Old City: the small places between the sights

One of the things we loved about Chiang Mai was discovering small, picturesque streets, with restaurants and places to sit that do not necessarily top the "must-see" lists. Alongside them there are busier roads, lots of scooters and pavements that need your attention. If you like exploring without a fixed route, this is a place that rewards wandering - but it is worth choosing a few anchor points in advance and not expecting the whole way between them to be a promenade.

03The temples of Chiang Mai - and why you should leave time for them

Even within the city you come across temples with pointed roofs, wood carvings, gold decoration and ornate gates. Part of the beauty is the contrast between the traditional buildings and the modern street around them. In the photos we took you can see how sharp the change is: one moment an ordinary road, the next a temple compound with striking northern architecture.

When visiting temples, wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees, and respect the rules on site. Not every temple is open at the same hours, and photography is not allowed in every part of every compound.

04Doi Suthep: leaving the city and heading up the mountain

✓ We visited | January 2025

One of our outings from Chiang Mai was to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the famous temple on the mountain. We went by car. Even on the way up you can feel the change from the city to the mountain area, and there are spots where a view opens up over Chiang Mai below.

Plan the visit as at least half a day, and do not squeeze it in between two errands in the city. The road is mountainous and winding, and at the temple compound there is a climb up steps or other ways up depending on conditions on the day. If you are prone to car sickness on winding roads or find climbs difficult, this is worth checking in advance. Opening hours, entrance fees and ways of getting there change, so check them close to your visit.

05The night markets: fun for eating, but not necessarily romantic

Chiang Mai is known for its markets, and we think it is important to set expectations right. The night markets are first of all practical, convenient places: to wander around, buy something small, sit down to eat fairly cheaply and enjoy the atmosphere. They can be very busy and crowded, especially at weekends. For a young group it could be a particularly fun evening; for a couple looking for a quiet, romantic dinner, it would not necessarily be our first choice.

Which market should you choose?

The Sunday Walking Street usually takes place on Sundays along Ratchadamnoen and the nearby streets in the Old City; the Saturday Walking Street is associated with the Wua Lai area; and the Night Bazaar is a commercial, touristy area that is open in the evenings throughout the week. If you are in Chiang Mai at the weekend, we would prioritise checking out the Saturday and Sunday markets, but be ready for the crowds.

06Getting around: do not rely on the map alone

Within the city you can combine walking with short rides, but the distances between areas add up. If your hotel is far from the Old City, do not count on walking everywhere. On top of that, some pavements are narrow, blocked or broken up. A trip to Doi Suthep needs separate planning - a car, a transfer or another suitable form of transport.

07How much time should you spend in Chiang Mai?

We stayed in the city at the start of the trip, before moving on to Pai. For first-time visitors we would consider at least three full days, to allow time in the Old City, an evening at a market and a trip to Doi Suthep. If you want to add workshops, nature trips, food or more day trips, you can give it longer. This is a general planning recommendation, not a description of how many days we ourselves spent on each activity.

08What would we check before booking?

First, the exact location of the hotel in relation to the area where you want to spend your evenings. Second, the season: northern Thailand has a smoke and air pollution season, usually felt most at the end of winter and in spring, so check forecasts and air quality close to your trip. And third, the calendar: if the Saturday or Sunday market matters to you, you need to be in the city on the right day.