Our favourite hotel on Haad Yao, by a long way: a warm, family-run team, a pool we did not want to leave and excellent Thai and Burmese food.
Yes, without thinking twice
There are hotels we remember for the view, others for the rooms, and some we remember mainly for how they made us feel.
Baan Kiao Resort, on Haad Yao beach on Koh Phangan, is by a long way our favourite hotel in the area, and one of the hotels we loved most in the whole of Thailand.
It is not a lavish luxury hotel. Its magic lies somewhere else entirely: in the people, the family atmosphere, the special food and the wonderful feeling that it is simply good to be there.
The hotel is a short walk from Haad Yao beach, yet it is quiet, green and pleasant. It has wooden bungalows, a lovely pool at the centre of the grounds, a bar and a restaurant that became an inseparable part of the experience for us.
What surprised us most was that, even though we were within walking distance of one of the most beautiful beaches on Koh Phangan, we found ourselves preferring to spend the day by the hotel pool.
And that really is not something to take for granted.
At the centre of Baan Kiao is a beautiful, well-kept pool, surrounded by pleasant seating areas.
Music plays in the background, there is a bar by the pool where you can order a cocktail, and the atmosphere is so relaxed and fun that it is hard to convey in photos alone.
We remember sitting by the water with a book, ordering a tasty cocktail, slipping into the pool every now and then and going back to our reading.
We never felt we were missing out on anything outside.
Quite the opposite. Even though Haad Yao's stunning beaches were right nearby, there were days when we preferred to stay at the hotel.
We slept at Baan Kiao for one night, but even after we moved to another hotel on the same beach, we came back here on the following days - for the pool and the restaurant.
To us, that is one of the most flattering things you can say about a place to stay in Thailand: it is so pleasant that you do not want to leave.
If we had to pick one thing we loved most about Baan Kiao, it would be the people.
Throughout our stay we met smiling, friendly and caring staff. There was a genuine family feel to the place, as if everyone knew everyone and enjoyed being there.
At some hotels the service is excellent, but you can feel it is part of a defined job. Here we felt something different: people at ease in their work, happy to meet guests and giving the sense that they really care.
We do not know how the place is run behind the scenes, but as guests we came away with the impression of a happy team. In our view, when staff feel comfortable and are treated well, it shows in the way they look after guests too.
That was how it felt to us throughout our stay.
The smiles, the courtesy and the pleasant atmosphere made us feel welcome, not just more guests paying for a room.
We think this is one of the hardest things for a hotel to create artificially. You can design beautiful rooms and build a wonderful pool, but nothing replaces that human feeling.
One of the things that surprised us most at Baan Kiao was the food.
Alongside Thai dishes, the restaurant also serves Burmese-influenced food, with flavours and dishes you do not find at every hotel restaurant in Thailand.
We love discovering local food and new cuisines, and here we felt the restaurant had a character of its own. Not another generic international menu, but special, varied, high-quality food.
Breakfast was excellent and generous, and we really enjoyed the evening menu too.
We remember how nice it was simply to sit in the restaurant, order food and stay on to enjoy the atmosphere. There was no need to go out and hunt for a different restaurant every evening.
There are places where, two years after our visit, we no longer remember what we ate. At Baan Kiao we still remember how much we enjoyed the meals and the time we spent in the restaurant.
For us, the restaurant is not just an extra service the hotel offers, but one of the main reasons we loved it so much.
The rooms at Baan Kiao are in wooden bungalows, with warm décor, pleasant colours and small touches that give each space character.
We loved that the place does not try to look like a modern, uniform hotel. It has warmth, a homely feel and a connection to its tropical surroundings.
But beyond the design, what mattered most to us was the cleanliness and upkeep.
Koh Phangan is a tropical island, and when you sleep in bungalows surrounded by greenery, you have to factor in humidity, insects and everything else that comes with nature.
At other places we stayed in Thailand we sometimes felt nature came a little too far into the room. Here it felt different.
The bungalow was clean, well kept and tidy, and we felt real care was taken over hygiene and guests' comfort.
The greenery and nature were all around us, but inside the room we felt protected and at ease.
That is especially important for anyone who loves staying in bungalows but does not want to compromise on cleanliness and comfort.
One of Baan Kiao's big advantages is its location.
The hotel is a short walk from Haad Yao beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on Koh Phangan and one of our favourites.
Despite being so close to the beach, the hotel manages to keep a quiet, intimate atmosphere. It does not feel like a hotel in the middle of the bustle, but like a small, pleasant compound surrounded by greenery.
For us, that is a wonderful combination.
You can head to the beach in the morning, walk along the sea, enjoy the restaurants nearby and come back to the hotel without relying on a ride every time you want to get to the water.
And on the other hand, when you walk back into the grounds, it feels like returning to a quiet corner of your own.
We particularly loved not having to choose between being close to the sea and having a good pool and a relaxed atmosphere. At Baan Kiao we got both.
In our view, the hotel is especially well suited to anyone looking for a place to stay with character, not just a room to sleep in.
Couples: the romantic atmosphere, the warm bungalows, the pool and the closeness to the beach make it a wonderful choice for a couple's holiday.
Anyone who loves small, personal hotels: if you prefer warm hospitality and a family atmosphere to a big, impersonal hotel, this is exactly the kind of place worth knowing.
Anyone who likes spending time at the hotel itself: the pool, the bar and the restaurant let you enjoy a relaxed day without constantly going out to look for things to do.
Food lovers: the restaurant is a real advantage, especially if you want to try Burmese flavours alongside Thai cooking.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a large luxury resort, rooms with especially modern design or a hotel with lots of facilities and activities, you may prefer a different style of stay.
Despite our warm recommendation, there are a few things worth checking before booking.
Bungalow type: go through the room options, look at photos of the specific category you choose and check what it includes.
Room location: if it matters to you to be close to the pool, or rather in a quieter part of the grounds, you can contact the hotel and ask what options are available.
Price and cancellation terms: prices vary with the season and the dates. Compare the hotel's own website with booking sites, and check the cancellation terms too.
What to expect: this is a place whose magic lies in its natural, personal atmosphere. If you are after the experience of an international luxury hotel, bear that in mind.
Without thinking twice.
We have stayed at many places in Thailand, and some of them were more lavish, bigger or more impressive in terms of design.
But few of them made us feel as good as Baan Kiao.
We remember the pool, the cocktails, the food, the well-kept bungalow and, above all, the people and the atmosphere.
It is a place where we felt comfortable from the very first moment, and where every little thing added to the overall feeling: the staff's smiles, the music by the pool, the meals and the sense that there was no need to rush anywhere.
If we stay on Haad Yao again, Baan Kiao will be our first choice.
Not because it is the most luxurious hotel in the area, but because it managed to create exactly what we look for on holiday: a beautiful, pleasant, well-kept place full of people who make you feel at home.
And sometimes, that is worth far more than any five stars.
On Haad Yao, Koh Phangan, about 100 metres from the beach. It used to be called Baan Haad Yao Villas.
Absolutely, yes.
Same level of comfort and price - hotels we stayed at
Same price level in Railay: an infinity pool facing the cliffs, a restaurant with a view and top-class service
✓ We stayed here
