The beach and the centre: where to stay and what's on foot?
A long beach, cafes, restaurants, dive centres, shops and nightlife - Sairee is the most convenient and lively area on Koh Tao. Everything you need to know about where to stay, the attractions and what you can do within walking distance.
Nightlife and cabaretBars, music, and the Queen's Cabaret show you should not miss
Sairee BeachThe longest stretch of beach on Koh Tao, and spectacular sunsets
Restaurants and cafesFrom breakfast facing the sea to excellent local food
Thai food and international varietyFrom the classic dishes to Western food, with a wide choice along the beach streets
Shops and servicesConvenience stores, boutiques, massages, laundries and travel agencies - all on foot
Where to stay in Sairee?Hotels on the beach, in the centre of the area or in the quieter north - and our own review of Seashell Resort
Easy, sociable, and everything you need within walking distance
Beach, sunsets, restaurants and nights out in one place
You can enjoy the area without depending on transport
Cafes, restaurants, shops, dive centres and nightlife - all close by.
For us, Sairee is one of the most convenient areas to stay on Koh Tao, mainly for one reason: you can step out of your hotel and find almost everything you need within walking distance. A long beach, restaurants on the sea, lovely cafes, shops, dive centres and lively nightlife. But it is worth knowing that Sairee is not just a beach but a whole area, and that the exact location of your hotel can make a big difference to your holiday.
When we arrived on Koh Tao, we found an island that feels different from Koh Samui and Koh Phangan. It is smaller, it has a young, free-spirited atmosphere, and diving is an inseparable part of life here.
But what we loved most about Sairee was not actually the diving or the nightlife.
It was the convenience.
We could leave the hotel in the morning, wander on foot, pick a different cafe each time, sit facing the sea and enjoy the atmosphere without having to start planning journeys.
In the evening we could go out again, find a restaurant or a bar, and even stumble on an amazing cabaret show we had no idea existed on the island.
If you are wondering where to stay on Koh Tao, Sairee is one of the first places we would look at.
But not necessarily for everyone.
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Sairee is on the west coast of Koh Tao, north of the main harbour area of Mae Haad.
Sairee Beach on Koh Tao stretches for about 1.7-1.9 kilometres, and it is the longest strip of beach on the island.
Along it there are hotels and resorts, beachfront restaurants, bars, dive centres and places where you can sit facing the sea.
Behind the beach runs a tourist area of lanes, small streets, shops, cafes, laundries, tour offices and other services for travellers.
And that is what sets Sairee apart from some of the other bays on Koh Tao.
There are beautiful bays on the island, with clear water and impressive views, but not at all of them can you step out of your hotel and choose from dozens of places to eat.
In Sairee, on the other hand, the area itself is part of the holiday.
When looking for a hotel in Sairee, it is important to understand that not every place described as a hotel in the area is actually facing the sea.
Some hotels sit on the beach itself, some are along the streets behind it, and some are a little further away, towards the hills.
Sometimes the difference in distance is very small, but the difference in atmosphere is big.
A beachfront hotel lets you step straight out onto the beach, sit facing the sunset and enjoy the view.
A hotel on the street behind may offer easier access to shops, cafes and restaurants, and sometimes a better price too.
A hotel higher up on a hill can offer a wonderful view, but the way there may be steep and less comfortable on foot.
Our tip: do not settle for the booking saying "Sairee Beach". Open a map, check exactly where the hotel entrance is and how you walk from it to the beach and the main street.
This is how we experienced Sairee walking through it - not an official division of the area.
1. The high, quiet part: the tourist street starts high up, with some very upmarket hotels, and then the descent begins. Quieter, less commercial.
2. The strip of hotels and shops: lots of hotels, followed by shops. A little after the hotels there is a gorgeous dress shop: high-quality, special pieces, Thai style but more expensive. We bought two special white dresses and a scarf there - the fabrics are special. Further on there are simpler shops with beachwear at very good prices. Massage places all the way along, and the sea always to one side.
3. The centre: towards the centre the popular hotels begin, the party hotels. On the right, on the path, there is a hotel with parties all night that is always packed. Further on is Seashell Resort, where we stayed. Then come the tourist offices where you book trips.
4. The two streets that turn inland: here the character changes: lots of clothes, food, sushi, shops and bargains. More crowded, a little reminiscent of Bangkok, less of a clean "fantasy island" - and in the rain it floods and turns to mud. Colourful, chaotic, noisy, and full of pubs that turn into parties at night. This is where Koh Tao's nightlife is.
5. The local area: at the end of those streets you reach an area that feels almost industrial: much more Thai and less touristy. A large hub with streets going off in every direction, lots of very cheap restaurants and cheaper massages. In the tourist area the food is more European; here it is local. If you want real Thai food, this is the way to go.
Sairee Beach is one of the places most associated with Koh Tao.
The long strip lets you walk along the sea, move between cafes and restaurants and pick a pleasant spot to sit.
During the day the area draws travellers who come to swim, learn to dive, go out on a boat or simply spend time in front of the view.
In the afternoon the atmosphere changes.
Sairee faces west, so it is one of the areas most associated with Koh Tao's sunsets.
The sun sinks towards the sea, the light softens, and the beachfront restaurants and bars become a natural place to end the day.
We especially love places where you do not need to travel to a viewpoint or a special attraction to enjoy the view.
You can simply choose a pleasant spot, order a drink and sit facing the sea.
Yes, but it helps to understand the beach conditions.
Sairee is a fairly shallow beach along much of its length. At high tide you can find areas that are better for swimming, while at low tide the water can be very shallow.
There are also areas with rocks, coral and boats.
So we would not promise that swimming is the same all along the beach.
Before you go in, look at the state of the sea, the depth of the water and the boat traffic at that particular spot.
If your main goal on Koh Tao is top-quality snorkelling, we would not choose Sairee just for the beach.
There are bays on Koh Tao that are better known for their underwater life.
But if you want to combine the beach, sunsets, restaurants and a convenient tourist centre, Sairee has a big advantage.
This is the part we love most about this area.
You can wake up in the morning, step out of the hotel and let the day unfold without a set plan.
One of our fondest memories of Sairee is the cafes.
There is something especially lovely about sitting down to breakfast facing the sea, without rushing anywhere.
During our stay we loved being able to go out every morning and choose a different place.
The cafes in the area offer a varied choice of breakfasts, coffee, shakes, Western dishes and Thai food.
Prices at the places we ate at also felt very reasonable to us.
That is one of the reasons we did not mind that our booking at Seashell did not include breakfast.
Quite the opposite: we enjoyed discovering somewhere new each time.
If you love cafes, we think this is a real advantage of staying in Sairee.
One of the advantages of a well-developed tourist area is the choice.
In Sairee you can find Thai food, international restaurants, light meals, fish and seafood, brunch places and bars that also serve food.
Some restaurants sit right on the sea and others are on the streets behind it.
We recommend not settling for the hotel restaurant alone.
Even if you are staying at a resort with a good restaurant, it is worth going out and exploring.
For us, one of the most fun things about a holiday is discovering new places, and in Sairee that is especially easy.
Along the streets you will also find convenience stores, beach and gear shops, laundry services, massages, cash machines and travel agencies.
These may not be the most photogenic parts of a holiday, but they make a big difference to how easy it is.
When everything you need is nearby, you do not have to rent a scooter just to buy something, drop off laundry or find dinner.
Koh Tao is famous for its diving, and Sairee is one of the main centres for it on the island.
Along the streets and the beach there are dive centres offering beginner courses, certifications and dives for those who already have a licence.
If you are coming specifically to learn to dive, staying in Sairee can be very convenient.
That said, it is best to choose a dive centre that suits you first, and only then check where to stay in relation to it.
There is no reason to pick a hotel at one end of the area if every morning you will need to get to your equipment and dive meeting point at the other end.
In the evening Sairee changes character.
The daytime cafes give way to busier bars and restaurants, the music gets louder, and some places put on fire shows and activities for travellers.
It is not necessarily a giant party on every corner.
You can find somewhere to sit quietly facing the sea, or choose a livelier area with music and a young crowd.
The advantage is that everything is fairly close together.
If you are after nightlife, you will appreciate that convenience.
But if you want to sleep early and in peace, take it into account when choosing your hotel.
One of the best experiences we had on Koh Tao was not planned at all.
One evening, while wandering the streets of Sairee, we came across a group of performers standing outside a place called Queen’s Cabaret.
We had no idea there was a cabaret show on the island.
Curious, we peeked inside and found a show already in full swing.
What we saw impressed us so much that we decided to come back another evening to see the show from the start.
And that was a great decision.
The show was colourful, funny and full of energy, and the performers were exceptionally talented.
At certain moments we felt we were watching a Broadway production.
We especially loved the costumes, the stage make-up and the performers' presence.
After the show we even went over to talk to one of them about the make-up, and found out that they had taught themselves to do their own make-up.
For us it was one of the most surprising experiences of the trip.
And to think it all started with an ordinary walk through the streets of Sairee.
This is where we would pay the most attention to choosing the location.
Sairee is a convenient area, but not every part of it offers the same experience.
If you like stepping out of your hotel and being right among cafes, restaurants, shops and bars, the centre will probably be the most convenient choice.
It is an area that particularly suits travellers who do not want to depend on transport during the day.
If you are travelling solo and want a sociable atmosphere, staying in a lively area has its advantages too.
The downside is the noise.
In some places the music can carry on into the night, so check where your room is in relation to the bars and places to go out.
In the northern parts of the Sairee strip you can find places to stay that feel a little less crowded than the busy centre.
It is an interesting option if you want to stay in the Sairee area but not necessarily sleep right next to the nightlife.
That said, do not assume every hotel in the north will be quiet.
The distance from the music venues, the direction your room faces and the specific building matter more than the general label of the area.
The southern part of Sairee is towards Mae Haad and the harbour.
It can suit those who want fairly easy access to both areas.
If you are coming to Koh Tao for a particularly short stay or plan to catch an early ferry, compare staying in South Sairee with a hotel in Mae Haad itself.
But do not rely on a map alone: some roads have traffic, and not every route that looks short is comfortable to walk with suitcases.
This is a choice that matters both for the price and for your stay.
A beachfront hotel can offer views, closeness to the sea and places to sit facing the sunset.
On the other hand, not every room in a beachfront hotel faces the sea. Sometimes only the restaurant and bar are on the waterfront, while the rooms themselves are set further back on the grounds.
A hotel on the street behind the beach can be just as good value, especially if the beach is a short walk away.
For us, a large, comfortable room in a central location can be a better choice than a small room with a beachfront hotel label.
One of the hotels we stayed at on Koh Tao was Seashell Resort, and it is an excellent example of how you can find great value for money in the Sairee area.
We actually ended up there because of a hitch in our accommodation plans.
We had booked an Airbnb that was, as far as we were concerned, awful, and we did not want to stay there.
We started walking around the area looking for another hotel, until we reached Seashell.
We were surprised as soon as we walked in.
It is a fairly large property with a lobby in a rich, impressive Thai style, room blocks, bungalows, a pool, a restaurant and a bar on the beach.
We expected the price to be higher.
But during our visit we found a huge room, with a comfortable bed, a pleasant balcony and a large desk, for about 2,400 THB (about $71 / €63) a night in the height of the season.
It was great value.
The most important thing we learned during our visit is that there are significant differences between the rooms.
We also saw smaller, more cramped rooms that we did not particularly like, and in contrast a large, spacious room that was simply excellent.
The room we chose also worked well for remote working.
One of us needed to work during the stay, and the large desk made the room especially comfortable for that.
The pool was cute, the restaurant was nice, and sitting at the beach bar with the view was a big bonus.
The service was the downside for us: the staff were cold and not particularly friendly, both at reception and with housekeeping.
That said, we want to point out that everything that needed doing was done well.
For us, the hotel delivered a very good stay for the price, but not because of the staff's personal touch.
Since there are also more recent reviews mentioning gaps in the upkeep of the rooms and pools, we would make a point of checking the current state of the specific room category before booking.
In our view, one of Sairee's advantages is that you can enjoy it without being part of a group.
There are so many options within walking distance that you do not have to build a whole plan for every day.
You can sit in a cafe, walk along the beach, sign up for a dive course, go out for dinner or join a social activity.
The area makes for a fairly easy, independent holiday.
And that is a real advantage over an isolated hotel where every outing needs planning and a ride.
Of course, if you are looking for total quiet and seclusion, Sairee may not be for you.
Definitely, but it depends on the kind of holiday you are after.
For couples who like going out in the evening, trying new restaurants and combining the beach with nights out, Sairee can be an excellent area.
You can spend the day by the sea, watch the sunset and go out for dinner without ordering a taxi.
Couples looking for a secluded resort, total quiet and an almost private beach, on the other hand, may prefer other areas of Koh Tao.
It is not a question of good or bad, but of holiday style.
If you plan to spend a good part of your holiday in Sairee itself, our answer is yes.
In fact, that is one of the main reasons to choose the area.
You can walk to cafes, restaurants, the beach, places to go out and everyday services.
But it is important to understand the limitation.
Koh Tao is a fairly small island, but the roads to some of the bays are steep and winding.
If you want to spend time on remote beaches, get to viewpoints or move between bays during the day, you will need a transport solution.
We would not recommend renting a scooter just because that is what most travellers do.
If you are not an experienced rider, do not hold the right licence or do not feel confident on steep roads, you are better off looking at taxis or organised transfers.
And in that respect, Sairee's advantage is clear: at least in the evenings and mornings, you can enjoy the area without getting on a vehicle.
Mae Haad is Koh Tao's main harbour area, where the ferries arrive.
It is very convenient logistically, especially if you are coming for a short stay or need to leave early.
Sairee, on the other hand, better suits those who want a holiday that combines a long beach, cafes, restaurants, dive centres and nightlife.
Mae Haad can suit those who prefer to be close to the harbour and the services around it.
Sairee suits those who want to be in the heart of the island's tourist atmosphere.
Personally, we really loved being able to get around Sairee on foot.
So if we were looking for somewhere to spend a few days and enjoy the area itself, it would be one of our first choices.
For all its advantages, Sairee is not the perfect place for every kind of holiday.
First, it is a busy tourist area. If you are looking for a deserted beach and total quiet, you may be disappointed.
Second, the nightlife can be noisy, especially at hotels close to bars.
The small streets are not necessarily quiet pedestrian lanes either. People on foot share some of the roads with scooters and vehicles.
Also, Sairee Beach is beautiful and conveniently located, but not every part of it offers ideal conditions for swimming and snorkelling.
And if you choose a hotel without checking its exact location, you may find the walk to it is long, steep or less pleasant than it looked when you booked.
These are not reasons to skip Sairee.
They are simply reasons to choose well.
We would start the day at a cafe by the sea.
Sitting back, eating a good breakfast and taking a little time to soak up the atmosphere.
Then we would go for a walk along the beach, pick a pleasant spot to spend some time and enjoy not having to rush anywhere.
If you want to add diving or a boat trip, you can arrange an activity with one of the centres in the area.
Towards the end of the day we would head back to the beach, choose a spot facing the sunset and order something to drink.
In the evening, after dinner, you can wander between the streets and the bars.
And if you are looking for something different, we especially recommend checking out Queen’s Cabaret, one of the big surprises of our trip.
That is exactly what we love about Sairee.
You can plan a full day, but you can also plan almost nothing and still have a wonderful time.
Check the real walking distance. It is not enough to see that the hotel is in the Sairee area. Check the exact route from your room to the beach and the main streets.
Do not automatically pay more for a hotel labelled Beachfront. Check whether the room itself faces the sea, or whether only the hotel's public areas are on the beach.
Check recent reviews for noise. If you are sensitive to music at night, read reviews that mention where the rooms are.
Pay attention to the differences between room categories. At Seashell, for example, we found a big gap between the small rooms and a large room that was very good.
Do not rush to book breakfast at the hotel. If you love cafes, Sairee has a choice that can make your mornings part of the fun of the holiday.
If you need to work, check there is a proper desk. A photo of a nice room does not guarantee a comfortable workspace or stable internet.
Do not plan your swims without taking the tides into account. Sairee is shallow along much of its length, so swimming conditions change throughout the day.
Definitely.
What we loved about Sairee was the combination of convenience and atmosphere.
There are places in Thailand where the hotel itself is the whole holiday. You rarely leave it, and every time you do you need to order a taxi or find a way to get to a restaurant.
In Sairee it felt different.
The holiday happened outside the hotel too.
The cafes, the restaurants, the beach, the sunsets, the streets and the nights out were all part of our day.
We loved not having to decide in advance where we would have breakfast or how we would get to dinner.
And we think our most beautiful memory of the area is actually stumbling on Queen’s Cabaret.
Because it captures exactly what makes Sairee such a fun place to stay: sometimes you just go out for a walk and discover something you did not know existed.
Our bottom line: if you are looking for an area to stay on Koh Tao where you can combine the beach, sunsets, cafes, restaurants and nightlife within walking distance, Sairee is an excellent choice. Just do not choose a hotel by the name of the area alone. Check the exact location, the noise level, the type of room and the way to the beach. These details can make all the difference between an easy, enjoyable holiday and a place to stay that does not suit you.
Sairee Beach is on the west side of Koh Tao, north of the Mae Haad harbour area.
Yes. It is one of the most important tourist centres on the island, with a high concentration of hotels, cafes, restaurants, dive centres and bars.
Yes. Many of the restaurants, shops and places to go out are within walking distance if you stay somewhere central. That said, it is important to check the hotel's location and the conditions of the specific route to it.
You can swim along much of it, mainly when the water level is higher. At low tide the sea can be very shallow, and some areas have rocks, coral and boats.
You can find spots for snorkelling there, but if that is the main purpose of your visit, consider other bays on Koh Tao too.
Definitely, especially if you want to spend your time in the Sairee area itself. For trips to other bays you may need transport.
Some areas are, mainly near the nightlife hotspots. Not all hotels are equally noisy, so it is a good idea to check recent reviews of specific rooms.
Central Sairee suits those who want to be as close as possible to the restaurants and nightlife. The north may suit those looking for a calmer atmosphere, but each hotel needs to be checked on its own merits.
The large room we stayed in was excellent value for money, but there are significant differences between the room categories. We would check the room and recent reviews carefully before booking.
Sit in a restaurant or bar on the beach, enjoy the sunset, watch fire shows where they are held, or go to the Queen’s Cabaret show.
